It’s not a good vacation without a great disaster.
Day 9 started just about as good all the others. But boy did this one take a turn. We woke up to a mostly cloudy day, packed up all our things, and headed down to catch the ferry in Uig.
The ferry took a little over an hour and a half, so we enjoyed some tea, some very slow wi-fi, and some beautiful coastal scenery of Skye. We were headed to the Isle of Lewis and Harris, west of Skye and a little north. I didn’t know anything about the island; I hadn’t even known it had existed until about five days ago.
We landed in Tarbert and immediately headed south.
And holy. Moly. Scotland has some spectacular sights--mountains, rock formations, rivers, lakes, but I was not prepared for beaches! White, sandy beaches that went on for miles and miles. We first came upon Luskentyre Beach which is one of the the most famous beaches up here. At low tide, the water receeds so far that beach opens up into the entire bay, so it’s like you’re walking in the middle of an ocean. We went all the way to the end and took in the view, teal waters, and purple jellyfish, before coming back up the bay to stop at this magical spot where the sand stretched all the way across.
It’s better than a post card and has maybe earned top spot for Favorite Beach in the Whole World. And that’s saying something after New Zealand’s Abel Tasman. I told Katie this and said, "Quick! Do something to make this beach the best!" And she obliged right into a rediculous dance move for half of a second, and well, folks, that just sealed the deal.
We played in the sand a bit, walked out into the water, and then headed back to the car since the tide was coming in. It was seriously spectaular and is a highlight of my entire life.
If that wasn’t awesome enough, we also saw Oreo cows!!
Next up was St. Clements church on the very southern tip of the isle. It was built way back when as a final resting place for that MacWhomever clan, so it’s mostly full of tombs and graves. We picked up sandwhich fixings at the local market (#foreshadowing) and found a nice little nook to park in while we ate. It’s a good thing we had bought groceries beacuse...
...we got a flat tire. In Scotland. On a remote island. In the middle of nowhere.
As were we heading back up the southern end of the island on our way to our house, KDew steered around a couple hikers and their (very fluffy) pup, and POP! The tire (or, tyre, as it’s called here) popped and whizzed. We quickly pulled over and some passerbyers in another car pulled over to see if we needed help. They helped us find a safer spot to pull off the road and helped us figure out who to call. They were from the mainland of Scotland and were wearing The Flash and Superman shirts. Heros for sure.
Being as were in a foreign country, and in the middle of nowhere, this would have been a excellent opportunity for a full meltdown, but luckily, I’m excellent in an emergency, and KDew stays cool calm and collected. I turned off airplane mode and we evantually got a hold of the roadside assistence people.
(Hufflepuff over here had taken off the rental car key chain in favor of--that’s right--a Hufflepuff key chain purchased while on our Harry Potter train excursion, so it took a little longer than necessary to get the phone number...)
The rental people told us that the tow truck would arrived in a couple hours, so we thanked our new friends and they carried on. We settled into listening to Harry Potter while we waited, wanting to be able to flag down the truck as it approached. After about an hour, we found some special lug nut needed to unlock the tire, so we called the rental people back, but they said the tow truck would be there in an hour, so we waited a while more. After another hour, and another call, were then told that the truck was en route and should arrive within ten minutes. Half an hour later, after some stern Dragon Liz dialogue, an attempt at girlish sympathy, and a lot of confusion, we got a hold of the actual tow truck company and confirmed that they were going to come...in a couple hours.
So here we were, sitting on the side of the road, listening to Harry Potter, eating sandwhiches (thank GOD we had food!), and peeing in the bushes, waiting for FOUR HOURS AND FORTY-FIVE MINUTES until the truck finally arrived. Krodo was not happy.
I had just said that I wanted to get out of the car and walk a little when the truck rounded the corner. We were able to flag him downand finally get rescued.
The driver loaded the car and we hopped in the cab for the hour drive to Stornoway, where we’d drop the car at a local tire shop and hitch a quick ride to our house for the night. There was no middle seat, so I ended up sitting on the mattress behind the front seats. It was all very late-night TV-esc, but alas, we survived. I giggled to myself about the whole thing once we were on our way, because life.
So after an incredible morning at the beach and a rediculous afternoon of dealing with the flat, I was not looking forward to us being jammed into some lady’s spare bedroom for our AirBnb.
Luckily, KDew is the QUEEN at accommodations (not to be confused with my dismal capabilities in the same department) and our house is one hundred percent charming. Annie, our host, built this lovely little home up on a hill in Stornoway, and it’s a complete oasis.
The inside is a bit county, a bit chique, painted in a warm mint (!!!) and has pink and white accents throughout. Our room is so lovely, with two large beds, old trunks as bedside tables, and a beautiful wardrobe with extra blankets. I knew we’d have our own bathroom, but I didn’t expect much since all other bathrooms have been fine, but nothing to write home about. Well, this one? Better than any 5-star hotel I’ve ever seen. The whole room is like a spa--clean and fresh and modern without being out of place for an old, Scottish town. The bathtub could fit my entire family and the shower actually had more than enough pressure to rinse conditioner out of one’s hair! Dunt’s favorite part is the single tap, meaning you got to wash your hands in warm water, rather than icy cold or scalding.
And, you guys. YOU GUYS. There’s a dog. A DOG! A little black lab named Beau who is as sweet as possible and loved on us the moment we walked in. I had no idea how much I’d been missing a dog until this one snuggled up with me and took all the worries of the day away.
This is by far my favorite place we’ve stayed, and I’m obviously obssessed.
Tomorrow, we’ll head to the garage to settle the car situation and then head around the rest of the island, avoiding as many potholes as possible!